MCC in Cosmetics: Uses Testing Supplier Guide

2025/12/05 08:58

Microcrystalline cellulose (INCI: Microcrystalline Cellulose; CAS 9004-34-6) is a white, inert particulate cellulose widely used across cosmetic formats as an absorbent/anticaking agent, bulking filler, particulate rheology modifier, opacifier and — for coarse grades — a gentle abrasive. This concise technical guide helps formulation scientists, procurement teams and regulatory specialists verify claimed functions, define supplier requirements, and capture the key safety/regulatory actions needed to include MCC in a Product Information File (PIF) or safety assessment.

Microcrystalline Cellulose in Cosmetics

Core functions and mechanisms

  • Absorbent / oil control — porous particle surface and capillary uptake trap sebum and oils, reducing shine.  
  • Anticaking / flow aid — rigid particles physically separate powder components and buffer moisture to maintain free flow.  
  • Bulking / texture modifier — low bulk density filler that modulates product feel, density and compressibility.  
  • Emulsion rheology modifier — particulate networks increase yield stress and structural stability in creams.  
  • Exfoliant / abrasive — mechanical action depends on particle size, shape and hardness; coarse grades provide mild physical exfoliation.

How to verify each claimed function (practical lab checks)

  • Oil absorption (gravimetric assay): titrate standard test oil into known MCC mass, record grams oil per gram MCC at paste formation. Run in triplicate across three lots; report mean ± SD. Typical acceptance: 0.8–2.5 g oil/g depending on grade.  
  • Anticaking & flow: generate moisture sorption isotherms, measure bulk/tapped density and Hausner ratio; conduct 72‑hr high‑RH cycling and inspect for hard caking. Acceptance: Hausner ≤ 1.25 for good flow; pass = no hard cake post‑cycle.  
  • Particle size & abrasivity: obtain laser diffraction or sieve PSD (D10/D50/D90). For facial scrubs aim D10 > ~10 µm to limit respirable fraction; quantify abrasivity in an in‑vitro substrate test and follow with dermatologist patch/irritation screens for facial claims.  
  • Emulsion rheology: prepare a model O/W emulsion and run shear sweeps + yield stress measures across MCC concentrations. Acceptance: reproducible increase in yield stress and improved resistance to creaming, supported by accelerated storage and centrifuge stability.  
  • Opacifying effect: measure reflectance/turbidity in the finished system and correlate with MCC dose for target whiteness or opacity.

COA / TDS & supplier audit checklist

Request and retain these documents for every lot you accept:

  • INCI, CAS, grade designation, manufacturing route and intended end‑use (cosmetic grade).  
  • Particle Size Distribution (D10/D50/D90) via laser diffraction or sieve analysis.  
  • Bulk & tapped density, Hausner ratio and tapped retention.  
  • Loss on Drying (LOD)/moisture, oil absorption (g/g) and ash content.  
  • Heavy metals: Pb, As, Cd, Hg and limits for each; residual acidity/processing residues.  
  • Microbiology (TPC, yeast/mould, coliforms) when MCC will be used in water‑containing formulas.  
  • Dustiness / respirable fraction and recommended PPE/handling controls.  
  • Shelf/storage recommendations and a full SDS.

Procurement controls: require a lot‑specific COA plus SDS; archive per lot, run a 3‑lot verification protocol (oil uptake, PSD/abrasivity, flow/rheology) before approving material for production; obtain third‑party heavy‑metal and microbiology testing for critical lots.

Production workshop

Regulatory & safety essentials (EU / US / CN notes)

  • List MCC and intended function(s) in the PIF and safety assessment (e.g., EU Reg. 1223/2009 or equivalent). Use the INCI name on packaging.  
  • For abrasive/exfoliant claims: include dermatological testing, in‑use exposure data and a margin‑of‑safety rationale in the safety assessment.  
  • For powders and sprays: document inhalation controls in GMP records, include respirable fraction data and add workplace PPE/local exhaust ventilation recommendations to safety documentation. Keep COA/SDS readily available for market inspections.

Practical grade guidance & application notes

  • Pressed face powders: select fine, non‑abrasive PSD; verify tapped density, oil uptake and sensory panel results for skin feel and transfer.  
  • Rinse‑off scrubs: choose coarser D50 with D10 > 10 µm; quantify abrasivity and mandate patch testing for facial use.  
  • Cream emulsions: generate dose‑response rheology data to identify the %MCC that delivers target yield stress and spreadability without destabilizing the emulsion.

Quick decision workflow for procurement

Select grade → request COA/SDS + PSD report → perform 3‑lot verification tests (oil uptake, PSD/abrasivity, flow/rheology) → include results in PIF → approve lot for manufacture.

For sample COAs, QC templates or technical files contact: info@sdshinehealth.com. Detailed grade guidance and resources are available at: https://www.sdshinehealth.com/industry-news/microcrystalline-17.html

References

  1. Chaerunisa, A., Sriwidodo, S., & Abdassah, M. (2019). Microcrystalline Cellulose as Pharmaceutical Excipient. DOI:10.5772/INTECHOPEN.88092. https://doi.org/10.5772/INTECHOPEN.88092
  2. Miljković, V., Nikolić, L., & Miljković, M. (2024). Microcrystalline Cellulose: A Biopolymer with Diversiform Applications. Cellulose Chemistry and Technology. https://doi.org/10.35812/cellulosechemtechnol.2024.58.62
  3. Guzik, M., Czerwińska‑Ledwig, O., & Piotrowska, A. (2023). Compositions of Abrasive Cosmetics from Polish Manufacturers. Cosmetics. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020067
  4. Miloloža, M., Rozman, U., Kučić Grgić, D., & Kalčikova, G. (2023). Aquatic Toxicity of Polyethylene and Microcrystalline Cellulose Microbeads. Chemical and Biochemical Engineering Quarterly. https://doi.org/10.15255/cabeq.2023.2181
  5. EFSA / International Cellulosics Association. (2024). Safety of feed additives consisting of microcrystalline cellulose. EFSA Journal. https://doi.org/10.2903/j.efsa.2024.8625
  6. SD Shine Health. MCC resources and grade guidance. https://www.sdshinehealth.com/industry-news/microcrystalline-17.html